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1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components, e.g. tank, carb/FI,
catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to
something that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup
completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle, and maximum vapor
flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you control how
'lean' your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum pulse
3. If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you need to
(1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the electrodes, (3) change the
size (bigger) electrodes, or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use
an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current you
need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn't that
where all the Fun is anyhow?
4. If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting the
timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the
coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base (see diagram). Here, you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru out the
power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct
strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500
turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT
touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at
any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from
the combustion.
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to mount them
conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This
way, you can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship.
Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,
vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
6. If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal, make sure to also
install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure
range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure relief-
valve to 75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher.
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of the system. Your
engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature
that we are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use
of the water-vapor cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good mpg performance records,
and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal
the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment.
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel injector;
there may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes progress.
For example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any
water vapor, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you
will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
“replacing the FI system with a Carb.”
9. If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress), you will want
to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle
position (idle - max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly
sufficient flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can
always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some
electric heating coils.
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your independence or
your truth.
Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794,
Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961,
Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water',
Carl Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
Peter Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”, <>
George Wiseman “The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series” <>
C. Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”
Stephen Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” <>
COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of these plans are hereby reserved for the People,
in their efforts to heal and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and environmental ideals. This
technology is an exercise in responsible self-determination.
DISCLAIMER: The Spirit of Ma'at LLC and the Spirit of Ma'at ezine and the author of this document assumes no liability for
the use or misuse of this information; which is made available as public-domain information and free of charge, for the
purposes of education, ecology, health, well-being, freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness.
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